Anybody got some extra vinyl?

[Dan R-M]

No, not the music kind.
Following up on the leaky roof drama, I've finally pulled myself together enough to take Melissa's advice and order some H-66 (from sailrite.com, $8 + s/h for an 8 oz. can).
My next acquisition needs to be vinyl. Does anybody on the forum have scraps they'd be willing to send? I can certainly pay for shipping if you can part with the pieces.

[HawaiiYurts]

What kind of vinyl is it?

Durolast

or...? We can send you some scrap pieces of

durolast

in a flat rate box. What's the area you need to cover? I think it will bond, but it may not if it's wildly different material... We have always used it on identical materials. Shipping may be cheaper from someone closer But we're willing if we have enough scraps. We'll even make sure no coqui frogs hitch hike along for the ride! If it's a lot of material though... then we should ask around a bit more, because shipping can get nuts in a hurry from way out here.

[Dan R-M]

I have no idea what type of vinyl it is, but H-66 seems like it would stick just about anything to anything. To quote the Sailrite site:

HH-66 is a superior quality, fast drying (2-5 minutes), waterproof, solvent-synthetic resin adhesive. It is used extensively for bonding vinyl coated and vinyl laminated fabrics like Shelter-Rite and Weblon to themselves or to various materials. Also used to bond urethanes, vinyl foams and films, leather, and metals. Outstanding for sealing or waterproofing stitched seams.
HH-66 is used widely in the manufacture and repair of vinyl tarpaulins, truck and pool covers, tents, awnings, liners, domes, inflatables, flexible signs, mats, tension structures, furniture, and sporting goods. Other vinyl applications have been with protective clothing, roofing and flashing, automotive materials, oil booms, footwear, flexible hose, industrial curtains, dock seals, and vinyl repair kits.

I estimate that I'll need, at most, 4 square feet. Probably more like two or three, but I'd rather over-estimate in this case.

[Tree Bones]

I have plenty of scrap used vinyl from billboards. I use HH-66 with perfect results. You can email or PM with shiping details if you like.

[Surely Yurts - Steve]

Hey Dan,

If you haven't already been taken care of, I've got tan and white 18 oz. vinyl scraps I can ship over to you as well.

[Dan R-M]

Hey All! Thanks for the offers. I'll get with one of you in the next couple of weeks. I got my can of H-66 today, so that's good. I found out that a flat-rate box is the same price no matter the distance (domestically) you ship it.
And, in much bigger news, we had our second child two days ago! That's the real reason roof repairs will be delayed awhile

[Jafo]

Congratulations on #2 Dan! Woohoo!

[HawaiiYurts]

We've got one on the way too, Dan! Congratulations!

[Marshall Eppley]

HELLO FELLOW YURT LOVERS. My names is Marshall and i am a yurt lover and builder. Ibuilt 3-16ft yurts from scratch and have read through your post about patching ad repairing holes.The cemical weld sounds like a good idea. I have to a good many yurt stes and have read a lot of good ideas.One of the things i saw on water proofing the roof was take a tube of siliconand mixit with terpitine and apply with a paint roller.The smell goes away after it dries and you have a vynl like finish.Never tried it myself but thought i would mention it.AS for the cables that thread through te roof rafters i am a firm believer of and i do one top and bottom.I did a test one winter i set up a yurt with jst the roof to see how it would hold up to.the wind.and i learned a lot with my set up i had 3or4 trusses come off the wall and never once had a cave in.My personal yurt with stood a30 inch snow fall with no center suport.the weight broke one truesse and a 5ft pice of wall but no cave in,or any sign the roof wanting to invert. Hope this helps some one

[Jafo]

Welcome to the site Marshall!

Thanks for the ideas. I definitely keep the cabling in the rafters. It sure cannot hurt!