Conecting two yurts together

[bss]

We have a 30' Pacific yurt and would like to add a short hallway (about 6') to connect our 12' Laurel Nest Yurt.

Pacific Yurts

recommends gluing more roof fabric to the top above the door with HH66 and running it across to the new yurt. Problem is; the Laurel next is canvas/duck so the epoxy won't hold on the other side anyways. I could sew one end and glue the other, but the whole thing just seems like a hokey idea. If there were a way to build a freestanding deck with a wood/metal/etc roof between the two, I think I would prefer this option better.

But it's all tough to visualize when you haven't actually seen how this is done.

So anyone with detailed photos of how two yurts are successfully connected together, please do share.

[Jafo]

Hmm, this I have never done, but I am thinking Melissa has and will ping her to this thread. Tell me, will this be in an area where it gets cold? Will the breezeway between the two yurts have to be completely enclosed? I ask because I see in some of Melissa's work, they do thinks like this:



You could have that type of structure between the two yurts too if you live in a climate where having it open like that is no big deal. I like this option because it requires no modifications to fabrics myself. In fact, I am betting you could even enclose such a thing using standard building materials and

insulation

.

[bss]

I would like it to be totally enclosed/sealed if this is possible. I have heard of using the existing door frames as starting points to build walls from, but I can't really picture this. I was thinking of rebuilding the outer clamp boards with a 90 degree piece that would stick out a few inches but can't really figure out how to configure the roof without having a very low ceiling.

I just want the hallway long enough to install a window on one side and a door on the other. It rains a lot where our yurt is (Eugene, OR) so having an open-air porch is not really desirable in this instance.

I would consider an open porch/breezeway (easier to screen in than seal completely) if there were a way to keep the water from running down the yurt roof onto the hallway floor.

It seems the owner of the yurt for sale on this page yurtliving Has somehow figured it out with their attached bathroom. I sent them an email but no response.

I would REALLY rather not modify either of the roof fabrics if possible. Like I said; in this kind of rain, and vulnerability would quickly fail. I think I could possibly run a vinyl/fabric roof over the door frames up and under the existing roofs a couple feet with no problem. I have thought of using some heavy duty magnets to hold it in place from the inside and outside

[HawaiiYurts]

Yes, we've done it. Most people here are looking for outdoor living, so the walkway typically becomes a breezeway, which is much easier to build since you don't worry about enclosing it.

The rain coming off the roof... We don't typically have a problem with that because our roofs come with a rain diverter over each door and most people upgrade to the gutter system. That channels the water well.

The major concern of building something with walls is going to be the connection points. You need to take into account that you will be replacing the walls and roof of these yurts (depending on the quality of the material) in 8 - 15 years. You need to keep enough room to do the work of securing the replacement walls at the door, roof and benderboard. That's the main consideration, and your water diversion.

I would do a gently sloped, pitched roof between the two yurts, overlapping the edge of each yurt by at least three feet. Be sure you leave enough room (2' or so) between the top of the yurt roof and the bottom of the rafters, so you have room to replace the roof. Whether you enclose the connection or not, it's imperative that you divert the water or it will rot the wood. Especially in rainy climates, trust me, I can relate!

We could draft something for you, our engineer is great at these things. There would have to be a charge, but it would be a fair price and save you lots of trial and error issues in the end. Let us know. Good luck!

[bss]

Thanks for the response Melissa. I may take you up on the engineering offer, but since this is going to be a spring time project I'm going to chew on this for a while.