For anyone following this or wondering about how rigid foam might work for them... A few years later. I utilized a lot of wisdom and advice from folks here, particularly keeping in mind the need for venting upwards. I started by installing the rigid foam behind about a 4th of the diameter and then checking on it rigorously through summer and winter. I never found any
issues ever. Feeling pretty assured, I completed the rigid foam installation around the complete diameter. This made a massive difference in being able to heat and maintain heat. I heated primarily with the Toyo (oil) stove mentioned above and was able to maintain 50 degrees (or higher if I wanted) with ease (but also a lot of oil, because it's still in progress!). I am about a quarter of the way through adding the second layer of insulation-- Originally that was going to be fiberglass, which some of it is, but I am also experimenting with recycling water bottles into
. I ended up angling towards using wood / vinyl flooring as my siding, because I had an excess, and it turned out to look kind of cool. This project is happening bit by bit out of pocket so it'll take some time.
The stove the original owner had was a Fisher that had been on our property that they cleaned up. There was a few issues with it. Someone had welded a badly made flue collar on top that was cracking. I replaced that with a new flue collar. After at least 2 years of research, I last month cut into my roof and installed the stove pipe. Thank god it turned out awesome and the woodstove works great with proper draw and can heat the yurt up fast. I'm going to post about that somewhere else.
I do still use a de-humidifier, especially in the summer.
I ended up having two installed windows and in the summer will have both my doors open with screens over them.
I am going to install a vent system specifically for shop stuff, mainly welding.
If you are thinking about using rigid foam
, I think it works. Remember that it needs to be continuous. Again, Fairbanks climate is fairly dry. I connected the foam boards together where they met with spray foam, and did spray foam at the bottoms of them, but
did not seal the top part of the foam boards, based on the advice of this thread, so that the air behind them could vent upwards. That seems to really be the ticket.
Rigid foam board is really meant to go on the exterior of a structure. I think you might be able to attach 1" foam board under the awning of the roof. Most places want vapor barrier closer to outside, so for most places the rigid foam board being outside (with its foil siding as a vapor barrier) is ideal. For extreme cold climates (here) you want the vapor barrier closer to inside. I'm continuing to research how layers of vapor barrier interact. Always a learning experience.