"Real" operable yurt windows

[Surely Yurts - Steve]

[QUOTE=ljamies1;2848]I agree. its actually quite simple to install your own window when/ if you choose. On my 12 yurt I have two real 32in.x72in glass windows ($150 each). [QUOTE]

I noticed that on your 12' yurt you have 3 separate wall sections what I call a "tri-wall" (Nice!).

For folks who haven't built or ordered a yurt yet, this is a much better & more versatile way to have "real" operable windows or multiple doors or connections to other yurts.

The beginning of this thread shows how to install windows after you already have your yurt which is really amazing and quite crafty. Certainly the way to go for a retro-fit.

For those who haven't actually bought or built one yet though, I would highly recommend ordering it built with the Tri-wall style (like ljamies1 12' yurt) to begin with. This way you can choose to add windows, doors, or connections allowing interchange of these options at any time in the future.

-Cheers

[addicted56]

Surely,

Can you please further explain what you mean by tri-wall. I see 3(tri) doors but not sure how that pertains to the walls and how doors make it easier to integrate windows later on. I'm guessing becuase each section is completely seperate inbetween each door? I guess that makes sense but wanted to verify. In the last retrograde video it appears that a seperate window frame is necessary for a real window anyway and that the lattice is forgiving in where you make your cut out. I'm just wondering how much is to much to cut out before you run into structural problems. Considering the frame is much stonger I would presume if you hade a few pins on the top and bottom that would suffice. And in this photo you posted they are all seperate instead of one big circle lattice unit, so it must be ok if you wanted to complete cut out a section and put in a full length window.

Thank you for your input. This is currently my biggest point of contention before we purchase a yurt. Windows are adding up to 1/3 of the cost and I don't even feel they are adequate for what we are looking for.

[Surely Yurts - Steve]

Originally Posted by addicted56

Surely,

Can you please further explain what you mean by tri-wall. I see 3(tri) doors but not sure how that pertains to the walls and how doors make it easier to integrate windows later on.
Thank you for your input. This is currently my biggest point of contention before we purchase a yurt.

OK,

Notice that there are 3 separate wall sections as opposed to one unified wall.

The method of cutting out sections of the unified wall to retro-fit a window is one option (shown in the beginning of this thread), and yes there is extra framing and canvas work in that method.

What I mean by a Tri-wall yurt is simply that there are three wall sections & that each come to an end at either side of a floor to

tension cable

framework. That floor to cable frame can either be filled in with a door or a 'real' operable window.

The act of cutting out a complete section from an existing unified wall is some work and would require taking the whole yurt down and placing wall end lattice work to intersect the door/window frames.

If you build it 'Tri'Wall' to begin with you can put in doors or windows and will have more options later on without taking it down or modifying the original structure.

[addicted56]

I have yet to talk to them but I just stumbled upon

Blue Ridge Yurts

today. They have a much more agreeable door and window option that is much cheaper and allows you a lot more freedom to put quality full size doors and operable windows in. Add to that the 10' wall option and you have a lot more room to work with. I am not a tall guy at 6' but if your standard door means I have to stoop 8 inches just to get my head thru I would not be a happy camper.

[Surely Yurts - Steve]

Originally Posted by addicted56

I have yet to talk to them but I just stumbled upon

Blue Ridge Yurts

today. They have a much more agreeable door and window option that is much cheaper and allows you a lot more freedom to put quality full size doors and operable windows in. Add to that the 10' wall option and you have a lot more room to work with. I am not a tall guy at 6' but if your standard door means I have to stoop 8 inches just to get my head thru I would not be a happy camper.

Cool, always exciting surfing the web checking out all the yurt stuff that's out there. This is a good time of year to stay inside and do that sort of thing (guilty as charged).

The yurt your describing is right about 20,000 bucks. You shouldn't need to duck to enter a door for that kind of investment! Just about all of us yurt builders these days are offering extra tall walls and additional doors (or just about anything else you can think of). Looks like you are pretty close to Blue Ridge in VA too. I've heard a lot of positive things about

Laurel Nest Yurts

which is also down in your region, may want to check them out as well.

-Cheers

[paigemc]

Originally Posted by Surely Yurts - Steve

Cool, always exciting surfing the web checking out all the yurt stuff that's out there. This is a good time of year to stay inside and do that sort of thing (guilty as charged).

The yurt your describing is right about 20,000 bucks. You shouldn't need to duck to enter a door for that kind of investment! Just about all of us yurt builders these days are offering extra tall walls and additional doors (or just about anything else you can think of). Looks like you are pretty close to Blue Ridge in VA too. I've heard a lot of positive things about

Laurel Nest Yurts

which is also down in your region, may want to check them out as well.

-Cheers

I recommend checking out Laurel Nest Yurts. I had over-looked them previously because I assumed, like most yurt companies, they were located out west. I was pleased to find out they are in North Carolina! They have great prices and Hal, the owner, is very knowledgable. He recommended purchasing only 1 of his window kits so we can see how they are made then we can make our own from there. I've heard others on here speak very highly of him and now I do too. His goal is to build a quality product and to help you save money in any way possible.

We close on our property in AL in about 2 weeks. We are currently remodeling our Airstream so it fits our family better and then we will move it to the property for camping while we build our yurt. I can say with some certainty that we will go with Laurel Nest for a multitude of reason.

[Jafo]

Originally Posted by paigemc

We close on our property in AL in about 2 weeks. We are currently remodeling our Airstream so it fits our family better and then we will move it to the property for camping while we build our yurt. I can say with some certainty that we will go with Laurel Nest for a multitude of reason.

Here is a good site for your airstream stuff.

I have heard nothing but great things about Hal here.

[addicted56]

Does anyone have any size recommendations or regrets when ordering their windows?

We are going to use a very small window in the bathroom area and one up off the floor for the bedroom and are not to concerned of the size.

But in regards to the main living space we would like to retain that spacious open feeling. I think the french doors will help with that but we have found 2 large windows measuring 86x36. We figure the 7' tall window will go well in the 10' tall walls but wanted to get others takes on it.

2 HUGE windows and 1 small window This seemed like a really good deal.

[SeverTheTether]

I emailed our manufacturer (Shelter Designs) about retro fitting some of the canvas windows with real windows. They currently don't have a solution, but may be working on one soon. We are going to attempt to retrofit the kitchen window this summer on our own. As cold as this winter has been, I don't want to go another 7 month stretch with only the door and

dome

as a light source. (I also want to be able to open a window and vent!)

My plan is to use the snow legs as stubs, and frame out the window to be the same size as the canvas window that is already there. We will cut the lattice and snow legs where they need to be, and fasten them to the window frame. (I'll build the frame extra heavy duty to support the lattice and snow legs.) Then we will custom order a window the same size as the opening, and fit it in there (similar to the video above).

The only thing I still need to figure out is how I will make sure the seal on the outside is good. I don't want any rain water to get on the inside of the yurt wall. The video doesn't show any caulking or any kind of seal there, so I'm not sure how water running down the outside of the yurt is deflected away from running inside the wall fabric. I'm sure I can come up with something though.

Not having more hard window openings is our only real regret. If I had to do it over again, I would have all the windows be hard openings! (Our yurt is raised 5' off the ground, so currently, I have to get a ladder out to open the windows... or close them when it rains. Also, this winter has been the coldest on record, and having the canvas windows in

insulation

mode for 6+ months really sucks!

[jeritchie]

Installing real windows can actually be quite a bit harder than one realizes at first glance. Remember what you are doing will affect the structural integrity of Yurt wall. I would not recommend glass windows unless you have a deluxe snow and wind kit (e.g. stud at every rafter point).

It is important to have a curved header and footer board that will match the radius of your Yurt. Remember you are trying to get a square peg in a round hole and it will take some adapting. The structural sub-frame should extend to either stud. Some thought should be given to attaching your newly cut lattice to the window frame and and trim to hide all of the cuts.

Finally – remember to purchase new construction windows. They will come with a screw board to use to attach your window to the frame. Be sure to use window sealing tape and caulk around your exterior trim. I would recommend solid PVC for your exterior trim.

Hope this helps!

jer