07-29-2020, 02:46 PM
|
#6
|
Yurt Forum Addict
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,193
|
Re: Q: Thickness of polyacrylic domes?
I always opt for as much natural light as is reasonable given the budget. For illumination reference, a typical 4'x3' bedroom window in an older tract house from the 60s / 70s admits about 12 square feet of light. That lights the standard bedroom fine during a sunny day. Not so much when it is overcast and rainy. But with 8' tall exterior walls and budgets like they were back then, that was 'the bedroom window' size. It is an illumination level boomers grew up with. You need task light on the desk to work.
However today a typical window in a bedroom/office in medium sized home of modern construction, with exterior walls 9' tall, is 6x4 and admits 24 square feet of light, twice the light of older homes. That's the size in this office for example. Very common now. Even aging eyes can see very well with that amount of light, with no light on, during a sunny day. Doing paperwork on winter and overcast days requires additional light.
Combine the natural light from a 5' dome with a few conventional size windows in the kitchen, lr, bath and a couple bedrooms, you are lit OK. But no better than OK imo.
I'd say the dome size is a toss up, UNLESS there are very few exterior windows, or they are very small, like 3x2. Then for SURE the larger dome would be better.
On a personal note, I do NOT like 'underlit' spaces, like older non walkout basements with area wells in front of the bed window for example. I have carpentered on WAAAY too MANY houses including modern, that do not have enough natural light coming in. I really hate that. Trying to work with drop lights strung in a dark rec room sucks. Did that for decades. If you want natural light, opt for 'alot', if it is in the budget. JMO
|
|
|