Portable platform questions.

[Almosthomeless]

Ok so I have a few ideas on how I would like to make my platform. I really want to get the best blend of solid permanent feeling yet able to be disassembled and reassembled. I'm thinking an on grade deck with several in ground anchors that with some digging would be removable. For the deck I like the 2x10 spaced closely and floorind directly on top. I have an idea on how to fasten all the 2x10s together and to the anchors using removable hardware, but I am pondering my options as far as flooring options. I can't see installing t&g in a way that would be feasibility assembled and reassembled. Does anyone have suggestions regarding flooring options? materials techniques ect? Also I've not been able to find good info regarding the drip edge. Any suggestions regarding that with the same considerations in mind would be greatly appreciated as well.

[Bob Rowlands]

I'd forget T&G on a semi permanent yurt floor. The stuff needs pried together with a flat bar. Sometimes pried in a BIG way, as in wail on it. lol If you lay the flooring on a right angle to the sleepers it would be pryable, but it isn't worth the big expense IMO.

If you opt for 2x lumber atop 2x10 sleepers on the ground, use pressure treated lumber for the sleepers. I'd also lay out plastic sheeting down before you lay out the 2x10 sleepers. Water may get on the sleepers, but at least they won't be contacting the ground.

Another option would be 4x4 pressure treated sleepers on 2' centers. They are rated for ground contact. I'd still place them atop sheeting myself.

Another way. Lay your 2x10s atop shipping pallets. You might be able to get them free if you scrounge around. They'll certainly be less than any pressure treated sleepers.

Either way, layout plastic sheeting. Earth contact is bad regardless of what they say. Also, lay additional plastic sheeting atop the pallets before laying out the 2x10s. Sheeting will stop the breeze and the bugs from coming up between the cracks in the 2x. Butt the 2x10s tight to eachother, as they will shrink as they dry out. Your full length 2x10s screwed into each pallet will self level the pallets.

Good luck.

[Bob Rowlands]

Also, use plated screws and drill pilot holes. Just use the cheap phillips head gold colored screws. You don't need the fancy deck screws with the fancy' self tapping' heads. If you take the tinme to drill pilot holes you'll shear off ALOT less screws, especially with hardwood pallets. Have fun.

[Floatstone]

I am in the process of building a modular floor for our 6m (Yes I am european) diameter yurt. It will consist of 7 parts, 1 hexagonal center platform (1,7m) and 6 identical pie slice like platforms that attach to the 6 sides of the hexagon in the center. Each platform will have its own flooring with a space left open for a radial floor plank on each side where the platforms touch. These floor planks will join the platforms together.

[Marshall Eppley]

I think i would like to go with s i p's held together with a ratchet strap around the outside. Made like tongue and grove so they lock together.Then a plywood cap hooked to that so the yurt walls could be placed around the inside making a nice seal between wall and cover. You could place this on pallets or a tire foundation. It would be insulated just paint or carpet the floor.

[Bob Rowlands]

That's a good idea snugging it all together with a ratchet strap Marshall.

[Floatstone]

Yes, Marshall, thanx. Excellent idea.

[Franak]

Can you send me pictures of the finished product?