Planning to build a yurt in Czech Republic

[Bob Rowlands]

I'm impressed. Nice work. I definitely like the half lap joints. You're gonna have a good strong yurt deck. Enjoy the build!

[Knecht]

Glad you like it. Rigt now I'm hesitating about the next step - I need to get some straight floor base onto the frame. Then I planned to lay polystyrene boards on it (with wooden "pillow" blocks inletted through it) and finally lay a wooden floor on it, attaching it to the pillows. Not sure what to use for the first layer. OSB boards? Not really cheap (I know, building a place to live costs a little bit, but anyway...I'm freshly unemployed and before my own business starts to bring some profit, I'm on a greedy mode). Plywood? Costs about the same, rather more. None of these is strong enough by itself to withstand the stress from me walking above (I think) in the wider parts of the frame triangles. Should I simply use some planks or maybe even lumber offcuts to form sort of grate on the beam frame, then lay the

insulation

straight on it? Or shall I add some more supports to the frame, first?
Thanks for any input on this.

[Bob Rowlands]

I'd advise installing a couple or three rows of 2X joists between the triangles, so you have no greater span than 2' anywhere. Think spider web for design.

Use Simpson Strong Tie (or equivalent) construction hangers to hold the connecting joists in place. I'd use pressure treated 2X lumber for any joisting closer than 18" to the earth.

Then you can install 3/4" sheathing of your choice, and carry on with the sleepers insulboard and final floor, etc. BTW I'd prime the down facing side of the sheathing.

[Knecht]

Thanks, I'll see what I can do. Been checking around local builder's supply stores this morning, have some measures and prices written and now I have to do the math (hate it!) and see what I can use and afford.
Also found an offer of cheap planks, irregular width, bark leftovers on sides and such, but all the same thickness. Could be also a way to go. I'd shave off the bark sides (insect loves bark) and cover the web frame with these (with couple joists added into the frame first). If I managed to save on these, I could perhaps spend some more on the floor boards then and make the final floor nicer and thicker, to help the whole base sandwich remain sturdy.

[Bob Rowlands]

You are doing good if you can go with lumber. Uniform width lumber merely speeds up the install. Irregular width is dealt with. it is just more labor. Lumber thickness really does need to be close. Good luck.

[Knecht]

Started filling the frame with joists. Ran out of material, as I originally planned to make it otherwise (luckily I realized it was bad idea - I needed to get some floor support beyond the beams yet). The very left triangle needs two more pieces yet. I'll get another batch of these green laths on Monday and finish the grid. Then lay and nail cheap planks in a cross direction on this grid. Then finally comes the insulating layer and floor.

[Knecht]

Ok, I finished the floor grid today and got some planks to start covering it tomorrow.
I'm a bit worried about my khana. Can't find any right dimensioned laths around and will be ordering them made at local sawmill. Obviously don't want to make any mistake and end up with a load of useless wood. The yurt shall have 6m diameter (about 20ft if I'm not mistaken) and I need the khana to be 150cm high (60"). Reading various instructions and tips and checking what dimensions of lumber is available around my new location, I chose the dimensions of my khana planks to be about 220cm long (88"), 14x42mm (.56x1.68"), 9 holes in each, forming 90°squares, side of the square being 23cm (9.2"). After some calculations, it should be about 108 khana planks, give or take (depends on final door size and such). Does it look correct? Or do I have too many laths in my khana, shall I reduce the counts and make the squares larger?

[Bob Rowlands]

I came up with 108 as an exact count, WITHOUT wall butts. Remember you'll need to add two at each wall section butt. If your 6 M yurt has 4 sections, add 8 laths.

I'd add 10% MINIMUM for waste due to knots etc, unless you know for certain the rips are coming from very clear stock. I knot half the width of the lath renders it firewood IMO. It isn't worth the labor installing a marginal lath in the khana, only to have to redo it later due to breakage.

FWIW I ripped mine from 2X studs and lost at least 1 out of 4 due to knots, and I was VERY picky when I bought the 2X.

IMO that isn't too many laths. In fact I'd say it is perfect. Mine are on 12" centers. That is fine, but my yurt isn't my prime residence. If it was you bet I'd go 9" centers over 12".

All of the trad Mongolian yurts I've seen in pics have spacing in the 6-10" center variety. None are 12" centers. Some I've seen have 12 crosses in a 4' tall wall. That's probably about 6" centers.

If you are planning on installing a rafter in each cross you're gonna have a *&^% pot full of rafters for dang sure.

You're doing fine. Better to think things out and ask questions than mess up and redo your work.

[Knecht]

Thanks! I did plan to get a bit more of them to have some reserve.
How about the rafter count, do you think I'll be fine when I skip half of the crossings or something like that? I simply thought that there should be a rafter on every top cross, but if not, I'll gladly use less of them.

[Knecht]

Thanks! I did plan to get a bit more of them to have some reserve.
How about the rafter count, do you think I'll be fine when I skip half of the crossings or something like that? I simply thought that there should be a rafter on every top cross, but if not, I'll gladly use less of them.