Planning to build a yurt in Czech Republic

[Bob Rowlands]

It's hard to tell from your photo how much wood you're removing from the yurt ring. But based on what I'm seeing, I'd definitely add another layer to the bottom of the yurt ring to beef it up a bit.

[Knecht]

Well, problem is that my khana laths have pretty short ends at the crossings. Surely something to remember if I ever build another one, but for now I have to deal with it. If I lay the

tension cable

in the crossings, I'm afraid there won't be much room left for the rafters. How about I laid the cable in every other crossing only, as I'm only using half crossings for the rafters? I could then lash the cable separately.
Also, what would actualy be the right length of the cable loop? Shall I just measure it by the khana's bottom edge?

[Bob Rowlands]

In your case the cable length is the yurt circumference on the outside of the wall. Since the wall is bracketed to the floor in its permanent location, just wrap the cable around the base of the wall, mark witness points, and there's your length.

Now is the time to make the cable.

The cable doesn't have to sit on the lath crosses. Lash it to the upper set of lath crosses on the outside of the yurt wall. Use five or six lengths of rope, and start to the left of right of the door frame. Do the door frame seperately.

Lash the cable at the narrowest part of the lath cross with a hitch, and go down to the next pair and repeat. Go all around the yurt until the cable is fully lashed off to the wall. That cable won't come down, shift, move or screw you in any way.

With your lath crosses being small, I recommend drill a small hole in the rafter right by the lath cross, and lashing the rafter down onto the cross to keep them in place. Jusat truck on down the line as you did with the cable install.

An alternative to all this is to simply cut the top set of laths off and leave 3" legs above the second cross down. That would yield a wall that looks just like mine where the wall and door frame meet. I have no issues at all with that set up. Just saying.

You're doing good. All problems are solvable. Have fun.

[Bob Rowlands]

It just occured to me, I don't know if you precut your rafters, or are attempting to making a master rafter that has a seat cut in it by the 'measure in place' technique. That's not advised if you are trying it without the

tension cable

installed, and the roof ring centered and at installed height.

If you are cutting them to length right now, WITHOUT the tension band in place, consider this. The wall needs to be tensioned by the cable to it's correct diameter, or plumb, to get the rafters the correct length so the seat cut sits in the lath crosses. The ring needs to be in its exact location atop the baganas as well.

If the rafters are running wild at the wall line without a seat cut, then you can get away without making a master rafter with seat cut pattern. It's your call.

Just wanted to get that cleared up or I might not be able to digest my breakfast. lol Have a good day.

[Knecht]

Thanks for all the good advice Bob. I think lashing the cable to the crossings from the outer side will work fine. I'll likely do it tomorrow.
As for the rafters, by now I'll just cut their upper ends to fit the ring holes. I'll deal with their lower ends then. They are all 3m long and the roof angle is calculated to match this length, leaving a small piece over the khana. Once everything is ready, I plan to cut a step on bottom end of each rafter and shape the overlapping part to fit into the khana crossing. That should allow the rafters to sit well. Will also drill them through and lash them to the khana. Wouldn't mind lashing them on the top end as well, though that might not be necessary.

[Bob Rowlands]

My pleasure. You're welcome.

You certainly can just lash the rafters up to the roof ring. I considered doing that myself. However, I have several inches of vertical oriented 1x3 rafter poking into slots in the roof ring. With that type ring design ring twist is impossible, and I know for darn sure that cable ain't gonna expand an inch. So the rafters tied off down low is good enough. Can you believe I said that? lol

Have a good day tomorrow.

[Bob Rowlands]

Oh yeah, I gotta tell ya when I saw the bagana duct taped to the ring it made my day. Men and duck tape. lol I just was at WalMart yesterday and happened by a duck tape display---and grabbed yet another roll. heh heh

[Knecht]

Yeah, I expected someone will find it funny when I posted those pics. But it seemed as the best option for quick attaching, without making any unwanted holes and such.
So, all the slots in the ring were chiseled out and now I'm putting an over layer on it.



Here's the top layer started. I chose to use un-shaped boards now, with just the correct attaching angle cut. I'll trim the extra wood on edges later. Will save me one sawing session, as I did always cut the shaped 1/8s of a circle and then ended up trimming the edges anyway. This way I'll only saw them once.

[grandpajohn]

Hi gents I'm late to the game but I'll say this - if you all haven't already planned to make this a sticky thread, I humbly suggest this one gets the sticky treatment. It's an amazing post.

You all are awesome to share thoughts and guidance for we who are taking a peek in this world of yurt. The more I'm seeing from y'all the more I'm deciding this is the path I'll take.

It's truly inspirational. Having a yurt novice and guidance from seasoned vets is exactly what this old man needs to get fired up.

Thanks y'all

[Bob Rowlands]

Welcome to the site grandpajohn.

Now that's a real smart way to make slots Knecht. Good job. Have a good day.