Quote:
Originally Posted by Is-ith
Ok so you guys have convinced me. My wife and I are now looking at doing a 16' yurt. I was doing some research and found this video on a supposedly 23' yurt but the poles for the roof look pretty flimsy/small are you guys able to offer some insight on this and why theirs works so well with what seems to be real basic materials... Here is the link.
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See about getting time in a shop - I built my first yurt in a local hackerspace with tools. A drill press lets you drill a stack of lattice-slats simultaneously & precisely so the holes line up.
You can use nuts & bolts for the lattice -- I did. But they fall out, even the ones with lock-nuts. My roommate's yurt has the lattice tied together with paracord, kinda like
this. I helped someone replace her yurt's bolts with aluminum rivets (ones with a stop, so they don't squeeze the lattice). While rivets make replacing broken slats harder, I think they're a good balance of sturdy, light-weight, and quick to install (with pneumatic rivet gun) -- they're my plan for yurt 2.0.
For the roof ring:
- You could steam-bend a roof-ring like they did in the video you linked.
- My roommate's yurt is from , out of Oregon - they do great work, and will sell you a roof-ring for under $400.
- I built mine out of plywood and 1x4 scraps - but it's heavy and ugly, I heard horror stories of rings delaminating in the rain and seriously over-built mine.
- My next yurt may have one made of clear PVC bent with heat-gun, filled with UV LEDs, and coated with fluorescent paint so it's also a chandelier. I'm trying to figure out how to build in fans too.
The roof-angle will be dependent on what you need your yurt to do. If you want to leave it set up in the snow, use a really high (>30º) angle and really sturdy rafters (I used 1x4s). A lower roof-angle means shorter, easier-to-transport rafters. If you're doing snow-loads, do a lot of research though - that's a lot of weight.
My yurt has rafters that sit on a steel cable, and the steel cable sits on top the lattice. I think that design supports a larger roof-load, as the steel cable takes all the lateral force from your snow-load... also, the steel cable is sized so I know when I've expanded my lattice to the correct size.
My roommate's yurt has a band sewn into the roof-tarp, which he can tighten after the roof is on, so it synches around the rafters for a nice waterproof/dust-resistant seal.
His yurt has the lattice bolt onto a door-frame, which is a good way to be sure it's sized right... but the tolerances are tight so it's always a pain to attach them. Another friend's door-frame has a slot running its full height, so the lattice just slips in and is held in place by the downward force of the roof - no bolts to thread! My yurt door has bungie-cords that wrap around the lattice, that's a dumb way to do it, they stretch out and the lattice gets in the doorway.
Wool
will definitely feel "homier" than bubble-wrap. Just don't let it get wet, or it'll put on hundreds of pounds in a hurry... or muddy. Sounds like you're making this a home that'll move maybe 1/year though - so that might work well for you. Mine's a camping yurt, and the bubble wrap is light-weight and can be flipped to keep me warm or cool.
I built a 19' yurt a few years ago, and awesome as it is to have a yurt, it was my first and is pretty jankey. I want to replace every part of it now because I'd build it all differently. I want to upgrade to a 25' yurt, so I plan to make a ~1/12 scale model to test all the changes this winter. You might consider a scale model too, as it's a good way to check your math and implementation details.