Dude it's cold! Installing a wood stove

[calcetines]

Ok here we go. I've bought a 2nd hand iron cast wood stove. I read a couple of threads about chimney support here and this is my plan and my questions.

We live & build on a budget. I want it safe and reliable. And foremost prevent problems regarding draft rather than having to find a solution with smoke in the yurt on a cold day.

I plan to place the stove 35cm (14'') from the wall. Is that enough distance ro prevent the inner fabric from

heating

up too much? The stove has a back, horizontal exit

From the stove runs a double walled 80cm (32'') pipe trough the 'wall exit'. 1 meter long, about 3 ft. This gives me on the outside of the yurt a spacing of about 2 feet between yurt outer wall and chimney.

To go from horizontal to vertical I can use a simple 90 degrees corner piece or a 'cleanout tee'. What would you advice, is the cleanout option a must have or is simple turn also fine?
Any advice against a 90 and rather use 2 45's? I reckon this is not an issue since I have only one turn in my setup

I am thinking to start off with two meters of vertical pipe. Should this be double walled as well to prevent creosote piling? What's the downside of using simple inox pipe?

Lastly I guess I need to place something under the stove to prevent the floor from getting burnt. I would like to use tiles. What tiles can I use? Ceramic or do you need something special heat proof? Maybe a cheap solution like pizza oven stone?

[Bob Rowlands]

Check the install data on the plate attached to your stove. If there isn't one look up your model online.

A 90 degree cleanout ell two feet outside the yurt is standard. Make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that smoke stack will be stable in any wind! Screw the sections together. Don't mess around! lol

Double wall pipe code used to be 8" to combustibles. You >definitely< need a pro grade heat ring setup in the yurt wall. That means you might need to cut out a section of the lath. That's a guess. Absolutely no pipe contact with lath or cover.

At 14" the stove should have a shield between it and the yurt wall or combustibles. Leave a 2" air gap between the shield and the wall.

I installed my wood stove in my yurts on 1/2" thick cement board. Tile setters backer called durorock. Wood floor was substrate. Never had an issue at all. The floor didn't get hot even with many hour burn.

[Jafo]

I agree with Bob. Clearances are stove specific. Mine for example has a 6" rear clearance because I paid for the special heat shield. Without that, it would have been 2' IIRC.

In my yurt, I have two 45s from the top of the stove to the pipe going through the wall, then a 90 up the stack.

Here is my thread when I installed my stove, though originally I had a 90 instead of 2 45s. I switched to get a better draft and it did indeed help IMO.

https://www.yurtforum.com/forums/yur...-yurt-933.html

[calcetines]

Can you show me a pro grade heat ring? This is the one I got.
It's small, can't measure now but around 7-8 inch.

Which makes me think this one is supposed to be used on the 'hat', a cover piece which you can pull over the

dome

.


I say this because the bolts are only an inch long, so the width between the rings can be an inch max. No spac to include the lattice and I guess even having the felt pressed in between will be quite a challenge


Anyone seen this one before?

[calcetines]

This is our baby. It's a top loader I guess. Two latches on the front, for regulation & poking?


Since I'll be opening the top for refilling I expect quite some smoke to exit after opening. You can see the rear exit is just under the top. For smoke to chose the rear exit above the top exit (once open) would require quite a strong draft. Would you agree?

[Bob Rowlands]

That looks like a high quality silicone pipe flange to me but I certainly am no expert at this stuff. Maybe Jafo can comment since he has a wall exit. Just get some longer bolts for the install. haha

As for top loader, one you get that dude fired the draw will prevent smoke from coming out the top. Open the damper(s) first to get a wide open draw. Then remove the stove top. Oh and install the pipe so the male end points down, so any runny creosote stays INSIDE the pipe and doesn't leak out. Don't worry about smoke leaking out. It won't. Have fun. You gotta nice yurt.

[calcetines]

Yeah longer bolts was what I figured Thanks for the support Bob

[Bob Rowlands]

Off topic. I'm just finishing up rebuilding my 12'6" d. rustic camping yurt. I'm at the stove install right now. Stove pipe will go through the 24" d. ring. I set the stove today. Need two 4' sections of 6" single wall pipe. For heat shield I'll install a second 8" pipe in the middle of the 24" d. and run the 6" up through it, that makes a double wall at that critical area. That exact stack detail worked great on my other yurts. And also need to make a spark arrestor since the stack is directly above the yurt.

Cooling off here in CO. Will be sitting by the fire before long. I'll have grandma, and my teenage grandsons and granddaughter in there for making smores soon. Last time I did that with them was years ago when they were little.

[Jafo]

My yurt manufacturer makes their own through-the-wall kit and that's the only experience I have with that kind of stuff. If there is any money to spare, I would seriously consult with someone who has experience with that stuff. We just had a camp down the road from my yurt catch on fire and killed 2 out of the 4 people there because of a poorly installed wood stove. Definitely not something to play around with if you are in any way unsure.

[Bob Rowlands]

ditto that.