Building my first yurt

[ryankal]

I really agree with Bob's post. Everyone in my family keeps asking why I didn't just get some lumber and build a rectangle cabin and I simply reply that I want to live in a circle. I still get a look of doubt when I explain more of the details. And I am positive that once they step inside my yurt (as long as it turns out at least close to my plans), that they will immediately understand.

Anyways, thanks for all the advice!

I hit the lumber yard today. My uncle is a homebuilder and he arranged for me to get some serious discounts through his supplier. Downside, the particular supply company keeps their wood outside, and we recently got hit with a lot of snow/ice, and I didn't feel quite comfortable hand picking wood for hours as they were more of a high volume company with forklifts flying around, even though I am sure I could have. So, I got more wood than I would need and should be able to make it work. Most of the wood looks good.

I decided to go 2x8 for the deck joists as well as for the flooring. They didn't have TG and the 2x8 looked better than their 2x6. I got 2x10 to rip for the rafters and khana.

I was considering just building the platform on concrete blocks, and at one point a square platform. I was even thinking of an earthen platform with a rocket mass heated floor at one point. As I already have the center post buried, so I'm going to stick with that unless I hit too many obstacles. Though I must say, ljamies, your ideas intrigue me.

My concern now, some of the wood has ice on it, Im sure some is a bit saturated with water. Should I allow it to melt/dry before working the wood? My thoughts are that, one I don't want to be cutting/ripping icy wood, two that I may encounter additional shrinking.

Thanks again everyone!

Regards,

Ryan

[Bob Rowlands]

My suggestion is to wait to resize the yurt stock. Shoving frozen boards with lumps of ice on them into a table saw is asking to get hurt. Ripping solidly frozen lumber to thin wall lattice size is a bad plan. Wet lumber is certainly OK to rip, but thin wall lattice size rips are gonna warp pronto, unless sawn from perfect stock. I wouldn't proceed with ripping yurt lumber at this time. Leave it banded and wait until the wood is well above freezing.

Go ahead and frame the floor and deck it. The sooner you get that floor framed and the deck boards screwed down, the less chance the lumber has to warp and take off on you. Sight the joisting and orient the crown up.

If you do wait, leave the lumberyard banding on it. That will help keep it straight. The mark of exhausted carpenters is lumber flopped down and kicked into a shabby pile at the end of the day. Look at the dregs of bunks of lumber in Depot or Lowes that the weekend warriors have torn through. Good for blocking and firewood. warp twist bow you name it.

BTW your wall lattice should ideally be ripped from the straightest grained, most knot free boards in your stock. Even small knots reduce the strength of narrow 2x rips to where they easily break.

If you consider waiting on the framing and deck until the lumber is above freezing, you might opt to prime the framing and back prime the decking. Also, look at the ends of the deck boards are orient the grain so the boards 'cup' towards the framing as they dry. Orient the end grain so it smiles at ya. Good luck.

[ryankal]

Thanks Bob!!

[ryankal]

So, I am horribly indecisive. At least until I am fully confident in a decision. That said, I am changing my platform plans. I am going to build an octagon from 2x8, then add joists as necessary (two full length, then subsequent joists/blocks at 24 in). I will put my 2x8 flooring directly on this. I plan on resting this platform on cinderblocks. I will attach the platform to the cinderblocks by attaching 2x4 block to the cinderblocks with tapcons, then the platform to these wood blocks. I think this will be much simpler and more stable than my previous center post idea. Thank you ljamies for the ideas. I just need to wait for the weather to clear and ground to thaw.

I set up the shed today to get into production mode. I ripped/drilled some khana as a test and am pleased with the results. However, none of my boards are completely clear. I took a couple photos of the boards and my results. The khana seem to be unaffected by the knots. Can you give me your thoughts?

Thanks!!

Ryan

[Marshall Eppley]

i drill then slice works better for me

[Bob Rowlands]

To check before they go in the wall, gently flex and bend each lattice rip after the holes are drilled. If they don't break, use em. It's all a learning experience. Go for it. You're doing good. Keep it up.

[Bob Rowlands]

Also, I just reread your platform idea. Sounds good to me. Easy to disassemble in the future. The completed deck is going to be very heavy, and won't shift. Your

yurt platform

is gonna work fine. Butt the flooring 2x8s tight. Caulk the gaps as they appear. Enjoy building your yurt.

[ryankal]

Thanks! I plan on drilling then ripping. I can't imagine the extra work there would be if I ripped then drilled!

I have the platform partially framed, should have it finished tomorrow. Just trying to work around the weather.

I feel like I might be jumping ahead, but I am thinking stove installation. I have been thinking and researching this for awhile now, but haven't found the answers I need. I already have a stove, a Four Dog Stoves Two Dog, but with my goal of having my yurt up and complete by next Wednesday, I need to get on the ball. Im hoping that someone here can provide some insight.

1. Do I need to use double/triple wall chimney pipe? It is quite expensive and I am trying to save wherever I can. From my research it seems that it is needed to enhance the draw from my stove.

2. What should I use for a stove jack? I have been looking at that "silicone gasket patch". It seems sufficient.

3. If I go with the silicon patch, can I just use adhesive to install it? I don't have sewing skills, but I guess I can try to hand sew it in.

I plan on laying brick on the floor and setting the stove on that. I also plan on surrounding the stove with brick to act as a thermal mass and insulate it from the surrounding materials. Thoughts?

Thanks again everyone!!

Ryan

[Jafo]

1. Do I need to use double/triple wall chimney pipe? It is quite expensive and I am trying to save wherever I can. From my research it seems that it is needed to enhance the draw from my stove.

I used triple walled not because of draw, but because the pipe is so close to fabric. You really don't want to be inside a burning yurt.

2. What should I use for a stove jack? I have been looking at that "silicone gasket patch". It seems sufficient.

I used a standard through the wall kit and a flashing kit from

Pacific Yurts

.

I highly recommend going through the wall if possible. Use standard pipe until you actually go through the wall, then triple pipe the rest of the way. Expensive, but not as expensive as a funeral.

Here is a thread that might be helpful:

http://www.yurtforum.com/forums/buil...imney-137.html

[ryankal]

I hear you Jafo. I guess Ill have to bite the bullet.

I am having so much fun building this yurt, though, it is far more work than I imagined. I finished my khana today. Should have my rafters finished tomorrow. Might even be able to get my platform up and level tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone for their help and input!

Ryan